Gabi On The Go: Havana - Day 1 (Feb. 15)

As much as I love the beach, I love more leaving the resort and exploring.

Havana is one of the most incredible cities I have ever been and I would love to check it out 20 years after my first visit - in 2005, with Mike.

So, we hired a taxi driver to drive us for two hours to the capital of Cuba.

As soon as we leave the resort, the scenery changes.

The drive was smooth, expect when we were stopped by a police officer to "check" our vehicle. The driver just grabbed a bit of money from his wallet and we were fine to drive away, without the police officer coming close to the car or checking our documents. Pretty fast and simple, but we left with a weird feeling of probably have witnessed a police bribe, so elegantly.

We rented an apartment for one night in center Havana. The area looks pretty ran down, but I know I can feel safe here. Tourism is the main economy in Cuba and crime is not a concern, at least not for tourists.

Like anything in Cuba, our apartment has stopped in time. The building was probably built in the first half of last century and the furniture and decor looked from the 50s. Everything gives me "old grandma feeling." It's like my grandma's house when I was a little kid in the 70s. The big window/doors, the tiles, the balcony, the high ceiling... are a passport to travel back in time.

These items and many others are clearly left there for tourists to appreciate. I am still not sure what this Russian red machine is. I guess it's an old radio... or perhaps a heater?

This is the view from our third floor apartment.

Our first meal in Havana was in a brand new private restaurant. Recently, the communist government here has been opening for private businesses. When I first came to Havana, 20 years ago, the restaurants were owned by the government. In fact, there are still some around.

FROM https://www.eeabroad.com/blog/paladar-cuban-private-restaurant

The origin story of a paladar is not one that you’d imagine. In fact, it came from Cuban pop culture. It began during the Special Period of the 1990s, also known as el Período Especial when the Cuban government granted self-employed permits in an effort to encourage the opening of private businesses to help boost Cuba’s depressed economy. During this time, the government also took measures to increase international tourism to assist the struggling Cuba economy. However, one big challenge was the fact that the government infrastructure could not handle the influx of tourists. After 30 years of absolute nationalization of the economy, the Cuban government realized it had to make some changes. (Learn more about Cuba’s latest economic reforms.)

During this time, one of the most common businesses to arise (aside from a casa particular also known as a Cuban Airbnb) were private restaurants that received the popular name of paladares in honor of the chain restaurant run by the protagonist of a popular Brazilian soap opera called Vale Todo. (In Cuba, Brazilian soap operas are broadcast on national television and are very popular.)

From 1990 to 2011, paladares had to operate under tight government restrictions controlling the quantity and type of products offered as well as the hiring of employees and number of seats allowed in the restaurant. These measures were a not-so-subtle effort to restrict the private sector that the government begrudgingly authorized in an effort to save Cuba’s economy.

The busy and loud streets of Havana.

Internet is a luxury here and people's access to data is pretty limited. Some locals walk around holding cel phones, but the vast majority os the population are not using mobile phones.

A unthinkable thing in today's world.

We also had very limited access to wifi. It was strange, but liberating too.

The classic old colourful cars are symbols of Havana.

FROM: https://www.anywhere.com/cuba/travel-guide/classic-cars

American cars were imported into Cuba for about 50 years, beginning near the early 20th century. After the Cuban Revolution, the U.S. embargo was erected and Castro banned the importation of American cars and mechanical parts. That’s why Cuba is the way it is today—essentially a living museum for classic cars. The old American autos are often kept running with parts and pieces that were never intended for them. It’s not uncommon to find a beautiful 1950s Chevy with a Russian engine—something that would be considered sacrilege to serious car collectors.

The Bacardi Building.

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacardi_Building_(Havana)

The Bacardi Building (Edificio Bacardí) is an Art Deco Havana landmark designed by the architects Esteban Rodríguez-Castells and Rafael Fernández Ruenes and completed in 1930. It is located on the corner of Calles Monserrate and San Juan de Dios on a 1,320 m² (14,200 sq ft) lot in Las Murallas, Old Havana. The Bacardi Building was designed to be the headquarters for the Bacardi Rum Company; it was nationalized by the Castro government in the early 1960s. In 2001, the building was restored by an Italian construction firm. The interior retains the original decorations in marble and granite. It is regarded as one of the finest Art Deco buildings in Latin America.

The international hotels right at the Parque Central are astonishing pieces of architecture! Locals only go inside for work, but tourists are welcome to come in and out, even if they are not staying in them. We used the international hotels for breakfast, exchange money and even to just cool down from the heat outside and use a clean washroom.

At Parque Central you can buy one hour or longer vintage car different tours.

Not too far from the Parque Central is the National Capitol of Cuba.

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Capitol_of_Cuba

The National Capitol of Cuba, also known as Capitolio Nacional de La Habana (National Capitol of La Habana), and often simply referred to as El Capitolio (The Capitol), is a public edifice in Havana, the capital of Cuba. The building was commissioned by Cuban president Gerardo Machado and built from 1926 to 1929 under the direction of Eugenio Rayneri Piedra. It is located on the Paseo del Prado, Dragones, Industria, and San José streets in the exact center of Havana.

Museum of the Orixas.

Brazil and Cuba share similar African heritage, from enslaved people brought to the Americas centuries ago.

As a Brazilian, I found very interesting to identify symbols and pieces of culture of my own country here, like African religions and art.

Museo de las Orishas

Created and housed in the headquarters of, the Asociación Cultural Yoruba de Cuba, this museum is dedicated to Santería, the Afro-Cuban religion widely practiced in Cuba.

The museum features sculptures representing the different Afro-Cuban orishas (saint-gods.) It is the first of its kind in the world.

Enslaved Africans brought to the New World were not able to pray to or create temples to their gods.

In an effort to maintain their religions, they worshiped their gods while appearing to pray to Catholic saints. They hid their beliefs and celebrated their religions during Catholic holidays to avoid detection.

Located on beautiful Prado Avenue diagonally across from the capitol, the Orisha Museum is a can’t-miss attraction.

A visit to this interesting museum presents an opportunity to learn about a very interesting aspect of Cuban culture.

Insider tip: Usually on Fridays there is an Afro-Cuban dance performance but check beforehand to ensure the performance is scheduled.

Chinatown or Barrio Chino.

A local was very firm affirming: "this is the Chinatown without one Chinese person."

In fact, we could not find one Asian person walking around Chinatown, but the history remains.

FROM: https://visitcuba.com/destinations/chinatown-havana/

Chinese immigration to Cuba began in the 19th century as a means to add workers to the sugarcane plantation industry. Upon basically signing slave contracts, many immigrants settled on the outskirts of Havana’s walls, close to the old Zanja Real - an aqueduct that supplied the city with water. For this reason, you’ll find a street bearing its name, Calle Zanja, in central Havana.

By the 20th century, the Barrio Chino had become a hub of small Chinese-owned businesses profiting from the city’s expansion - making the Cuban Chinatown one of the largest in Latin America.

After a triumphant revolution, all private businesses were nationalized, causing thousands of Chinese nationals to flee Cuba. As the years passed, the neighborhood lost its former luster, prompting the formation of a program to revive Chinese culture and heritage in Cuba during the 1990s. Today, it has regained much of its initial charm to make the Barrio Chino a tourist attraction that deserves a visit if you’re in central Havana.

These days it’s hard to come across any Chinese Cubans with clearly defined Asian facial characteristics, as the majority of the first immigrants were adult males who had children and formed families with mulato and Spanish women. Nevertheless, their modern descendants carry roughly ¼ Asian genes and are in charge of running the small restaurants and businesses in Chinatown.

This brought me right back to my childhood: cocada, a super sweet dessert made of coconut.

FROM :http://www.cubarecipes.org/recipes/desserts/cocada-cuban-style

Ingredients:

150 g grated coconut

200 g sugar

3 eggs

Directions:

Put the eggs and the sugar in a bowl and mix until you get a uniform mixture. Add the coconut and mix well. If it is too dry, add one more yolk of egg. Finish by kneading with your hands. Shape them with your hands or with a spoon and put them on baking paper. Take them to the preheated oven at 180° Celsius for 20 minutes. They should be browned on the outside and fluffy on the inside, which will harden a little when they cool down. They come out approximately 25 cocadas.

Another throw back to my childhood, playing "taco" on the streets.

I love this Arabic looking architecture.

I always wonder about the history of these beautiful buildings.

Happy explorers.

There are not too many stores in Havana in general, still more than 20 years ago when I first came here.

This one, of cultural and religious itens, caught my attention.

People are out there all the time, looking, interacting, living the city life.

A stop to recharge our energy.

We tried this Mexican drink, called Chelada, which is beer and lime juice.

Havana has four main squares. This is the Catedral Square.

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plaza_de_la_Catedral

Plaza de la Catedral (English: Cathedral Square) is one of the four main squares in Old Havana and the site of the Cathedral of Havana from which it takes its name. Originally a swamp, it was later drained and used as a naval dockyard. Following the construction of the Cathedral in 1727, it became the site of some of the city's grandest mansions. It is the site of the Museo del Arte Colonial (Colonial Art Museum) and a number of restaurants.

One of the buildings on the Plaza is the Palacio del Conde Lombillo, in front of which there is a statue of the flamenco dancer Antonio Gades.

Back at our AirBnb for a little break before we embrace Havana's nightlife... and a little pause to enjoy our delicious rooftop.

Rooftops are famous in Havana and tell a lot of its people and culture.

Suggestion of a great documentary, available on Apple TV: Havana, from on High

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8176874/

Trailer: https://youtu.be/NX6cB4fb-AA

Time to enjoy Havana's nightlife!

Here, our new friend entertain us while making his living bringing us, tourists, to this restaurant.

Little cats don't want to miss anything either, specially left over of my food.

They too are part go the constant hustle.

Finally, the most exciting destination: La Bodeguita Del Medio.

The most popular mojito place has had famous clients such as salvador Allende, Pablo Neruda, Ernest Hemingway... and most recently Gabi V., Gabi P., Marcelo and Tania! :)

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodeguita_del_medio

La Bodeguita del Medio is a restaurant-bar in Havana, Cuba. La Bodeguita lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the bar since its opening in 1942, although this is disputed. It has been patronized by Salvador Allende, the poet Pablo Neruda, the artist Josignacio and many others. The rooms are full of curious objects, frames, photos, as well as the walls covered by signatures of famous or unknown customers, recounting the island's past.

Regulars:

Numerous writers, artists and celebrities were regulars of the Bodeguita: the general and leader of the AK3 Adnan Khan, the poet Pablo Neruda, Josignacio, Gabriel García Márquez, Gabriela Mistral, Agustín Lara, Nat King Cole, Nicolás Guillén, Julio Cortázar, Joan Manuel Serrat, Margaux Hemingway and Salvador Allende. Ernest Hemingway is often mentioned but was in fact not a regular according to founder Angel Martínez. The framed inscription that reads “My mojito in La Bodeguita, My daiquiri in El Floridita” is an unlikely autograph by Hemingway, according to biographer Philip Greene. For one, Hemingway usually signed his name without loops in the "g" and "y", while the signature in the Bodeguita does include loops.