Wednesday, December 6, 2023

October 12: From Harlem to Guggenheim



Harlem Day!
I first visited Harlem with Mike about 18 years ago, so it was time to go back. What a pleasant visit Gabi and I had! Harlem is a lively and friendly neighbourhood with lots of arts and culture. I would've liked to either have a tour guide with us, or have spent more time there, but I am proud to say we had a fantastic visit and even made some friends. We'll be back!


FROM BRITANNICA: https://www.britannica.com/place/Harlem-New-York

Apollo Theatertheatre established in 1913 at 253 West 125th Street in the Harlem district of New York City. It has been a significant venue for African American popular music.
The Apollo was the central theatre on Harlem’s main commercial street, and its position reflects its central role in Harlem’s culture. Designed by New York architect George Keister, the building was leased by Jules Hurtig and Harry Seamon and opened as Hurtig and Seamon’s New (Burlesque) Theater. After a few years it was purchased by a competitor and renamed the 125th Street Apollo Theater. The district surrounding the building was opened up during the 1910s to African Americans making the Great Migration out of the South, and in the 1920s Harlem was transformed into a Black residential and commercial area.
The Apollo was again under new ownership in 1932; burlesque shows began to give way to musical revues, and the theatre’s new owners began to tailor shows to the area’s most recent residents. The building opened its doors to African Americans for the first time on January 26, 1934. That year the long-standing weekly talent show called Amateur Night at the Apollo was born, and one of its early winners was the young Ella Fitzgerald. These Wednesday night shows became legendary, not only for the individuals and groups discovered there (including Lena HorneSam Cookethe OriolesMarvin GayeJames Brown, and many others) but also for the highly sophisticated and critical audience that attended. Many performers—including Brown, Moms MableyB.B. King, and Clyde McPhatter—recorded live albums at the theatre; these recordings document the Apollo’s trademark performer-audience dialogue.


We met this super friendly woman in front of the Apollo Theatre. 
Caren "with a C," welcomed us right away and was extremely happy to give us the neighbourhood insights and places to visit.  Caren, you are awesome!


This is one of many murals all over the area, telling the history and contribution of African Americans in this country.



The Harriet Tubman Memorial is a must see spot in Harlem. 



The statue of this amazing heroin caught our attention for the symbolism of roots of trees coming from her back. 
Another sign? 

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harriet_Tubman

Harriet Tubman was an American abolitionist and social activist. After escaping slavery, Tubman made some 13 missions to rescue approximately 70 enslaved people, including her family and friends, using the network of antislavery activists and safe houses known collectively as the Underground Railroad. During the American Civil War, she served as an armed scout and spy for the Union Army. In her later years, Tubman was an activist in the movement for women's suffrage.




One of Caren's hot tips was the newly inaugurated Renaissance New York Harlem Hotel. It was just a nice hotel, with with amazing friendly stuff who let us explore the beautiful interior and take pictures from the view. The loud jazz and soul music gave us a sound track for the day. 



Gabi's big smile says everything. 
We were at home. 


The historical Theresa Hotel across the street.

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hotel_Theresa

The 13-story hotel was built in 1912-13 by German-born stockbroker Gustavus Sidenberg (1843–1915), whose wife the hotel is named after, and was designed by the firm of George & Edward Blum, who specialized in designing apartment buildings. The hotel, which was known in its heyday as «the Waldorf of Harlem», exemplifies the Blums’ inventive use of terra-cotta for ornamentation, and has been called «one of the most visually striking structures in northern Manhattan.»

The building, now an office building known as Theresa Towers, was designated a New York City landmark in 1993, and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2005.

In 1960 Fidel Castro came to New York for the opening session of the United Nations, and, after storming out of the Hotel Shelburne in Midtown Manhattan because of the management’s demand for payment in cash, he and his entourage stayed at the Theresa, where they rented 80 rooms for $800 per day. According to the New York Times, Castro felt that «Negroes would be more sympathetic» to his cause, and indeed he drew enthusiastic crowds of supporters, along with some protesters. While Castro was there, he was visited by Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev, as well as by such luminaries as Malcolm X, poets Langston Hughes and Allen Ginsberg, Gamal Abdel Nasser, the president of Egypt, Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru of India, and radical sociologist C. Wright Mills. Subsequent to Castro’s visit, other Third World leaders, such as Patrice Lumumba of the Belgian Congo, chose to stay at the Theresa.

In October 1960, John F. Kennedy campaigned for the presidency at the hotel, along with Eleanor Roosevelt and other leading figures in the Democratic Party.




This stairs honours the biggest names of African American jazz. 

Ps. This photo was taken by a friendly man who suggested that we posed for the camera, making us feel like stars as well.



Detail of one of the public washrooms door.



Back on the streets, Harlem for you!



I really wanted to try the famous Red Rooster Harlem, "Celebrating the Roots of American Cuisine."

FROM https://www.redroosterharlem.com/

Located in the heart of Harlem, Red Rooster Harlem serves comfort food that celebrates the roots of American cuisine and the neighborhood’s diverse culinary traditions. We seek to share the story of Harlem with our guests and offer a space that celebrates local artists, musicians and culinary talents alike. We embrace today’s Harlem with a spirit of inclusiveness and community by hiring our family of staff from within the community, inspiring better eating through neighborhood cooking classes, and buying from local purveyors.

Named in honor of the legendary Harlem speakeasy that attracted neighborhood folk, jazz greats, and noteworthy figures of the 20th century from Adam Clayton Powell Jr. to Nat King Cole and James Baldwin, we’re privileged to share our namesake with the original Red Rooster.  

Co-Creators Andrew Chapman and Marcus Samuelsson have long wanted to open a restaurant that would have a positive impact on the neighborhood’s culinary landscape and its community at-large.



The best corn bread and butter I have ever tasted!
We also ordered fried chicken on a waffle and shrimps and grits, which ended up being way too much food, but it was all to die for!


Less than 10 minutes walking from the restaurant, along Malcolm X Boulevard, there was the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture in Harlem. 


FROM: https://www.nypl.org/press/schomburg-center-research-black-culture-opens-2023-exhibition-exploring-art-and-us-prison?fbclid=IwAR0dMDcXexAptEi9YQRNU25g3rxqiGl3fDyR0LW17gn4RTFUbCJulEf2n9c

The Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture will host the traveling exhibition Marking Time: Art in the Age of Mass Incarceration. Documenting the work of more than 30 artists, including people in prisons, formerly incarcerated artists, and work by nonincarcerated artists concerned with state repression, erasure, and imprisonment, the exhibition will be on view throughout the historic research library. 



This was a tough but important art exhibition. 
This piece by a wrongfully convicted back person - who was sentenced to a death penalty - really touched me.




From Harlem to Central park is a few blocks away, but it feels like another city, or even another world. 
It's like the air changes. The colours are more subdued. The sounds less intense. The skin tones change.   


I have been many times to NYC, but this was my first time at the Guggenheim Museum. 

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solomon_R._Guggenheim_Museum

The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, often referred to as The Guggenheim, is an art museum at 1071 Fifth Avenue between 88th and 89th Streets on the Upper East Side of Manhattan in New York City. It is the permanent home of a continuously expanding collection of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist, early Modern, and contemporary art and also features special exhibitions throughout the year. It was established by the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation in 1939 as the Museum of Non-Objective Painting, under the guidance of its first director, Hilla von Rebay. The museum adopted its current name in 1952, three years after the death of its founder Solomon R. Guggenheim.



Us. At the Guggenheim.


The building itself is already a magnificent piece of art.

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solomon_R._Guggenheim_Museum

The museum's building, a landmark work of 20th-century architecture designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, drew controversy for the unusual shape of its display spaces and took 15 years to design and build; it was completed in 1959. It consists of a six-story, bowl-shaped main gallery to the south, a four-story "monitor" to the north, and a ten-story annex to the northeast. The main gallery contains a six-story helical ramp that extends along its perimeter, as well as a central ceiling skylight. The Thannhauser Collection is housed within the top three stories of the monitor, and there are additional galleries in the annex and a learning center in the basement. The building underwent expansion and extensive renovations from 1990 to 1992, when the annex was built, and it was renovated again from 2005 to 2008.


The Exhibition Only The Young: Experimental Art in Korea, 1960-1970s.


There it was again: a tree with strong roots.


FROM: https://www.guggenheim.org/exhibition/experimental-art-in-korea-1960s-70s

Only the Young: Experimental Art in Korea, 1960s–1970s examines the groundbreaking and genre-defying body of artistic production from an era of remarkable transformation in South Korea. Created by young artists who came of age in the decades immediately following the Korean War, the artworks reflect and respond to the changing socioeconomic and material conditions that were shaped by a tumultuous political landscape at home and a globalizing world beyond. This is the first North American museum exhibition dedicated to Korean Experimental art (silheom misul) and its artists, whose radical approach to materials and process resulted in some of the most significant avant-garde practices of the twentieth century.

Spanning three tower galleries and featuring approximately eighty works, this exhibition offers an unprecedented opportunity to experience the creativity and breadth of this generation of Korean artists. 







A couple of (dark) Picasso's paintings from the Guggenheim's permanent exhibition.




It was a gorgeous and pleasant day. 
Leaving Central Park and exploring the Upper West Side of Manhattan.



This is a fancy neighbourhood with very beautiful house and front porches.


FROM FORBES: https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnmariani/2019/05/29/after-a-fire-closed-it-new-yorks-bustan-is-better-than-ever-for-innovative-mediterranean-cuisine/?sh=7f59f4a443c2


 For several years Bustan, which means “garden” or “orchard,” was among the best and most popular ethnic restaurants on the Upper West Side. Sadly, last year, the interior was engulfed by fire, though the lovely outdoor patio was largely spared. Now re-opened by owner Tuvia Feldman, Bustan has been restored to look pretty much the way it had, and Chef Eli Buliskeria, now joined by Shir Rozenblatt as pastry chef, has taken what was always wonderful on the menu and refined and lightened it all with real finesse.

         The menu is still resolutely devoted to the flavors and culinary traditions of North Africa, Italy, Greece and the Middle East, from mezes (or mazettim) to many dishes cooked in a dome-shaped, wood-fired taboon oven.



A photo art exhibition at the restaurant about... trees!



Closing our 48 hours in NYC in style!


This was another phenomenal meal! 
We choose the small appetizers, so we could try different things. 
Flatbread, falafel, hummus, olives... a dinner to stay in our memory.



The staff was nice enough to accommodate a special request: Israeli salad with onions on the side. :)

That was NYC with my lovely friend, Gabi P.: short, but sweet!
Like the trees we've encountered, we will continue branching out and rooting even more our friendship.
 

October 11, 2023: 48 hours in the Big Apple!

 

Short and sweet!

It all started when I heard that one of my favourite Brazilian artists was doing a concert in NYC. Well, there was a reason to visit the Big Apple. Why not with a wonderful friend, who I haven't hang out too much lately because of the distance - she lives in Montreal, and I am in Toronto. Maybe she will say "yes"! She did! NYC, here we go!


Gabi & Gabi - meeting in person at Toronto airport, after one year.


Entering Manhattan.


HOTEL: 

Fairfield Inn & Suites New York Manhattan/Times Square South - 338 WEST 36TH STREET



Right after dropping our bags in the hotel we basically ran to the High Line, towards south -  to Chelsea Market. 

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Line

The High Line is a 1.45-mile-long (2.33 km) elevated linear parkgreenway and rail trail created on a former New York Central Railroad spur on the west side of Manhattan in New York City. The High Line's design is a collaboration between James Corner Field OperationsDiller Scofidio + Renfro, and Piet Oudolf. The abandoned spur has been redesigned as a "living system" drawing from multiple disciplines which include landscape architecture, urban design, and ecology. The High Line was inspired by the 4.7 km (2.9 mi) long Coulée verte (tree-lined walkway), a similar project in Paris completed in 1993.


Our first picture together in NYC... and probably my favourite one of the whole trip.

The tree symbolism will follow us throughout these 48 years: the roots of our friendship branching out.


FROM:https://www.thehighline.org/art/projects/pamela-rosenkranz/

For the third High Line Plinth commission, Rosenkranz presents Old Tree, a bright red-and-pink sculpture that animates myriad historical archetypes wherein the tree of life connects heaven and earth. The tree’s sanguine color resembles the branching systems of human organs, blood vessels, and tissue, inviting viewers to consider the indivisible connection between human and plant life. Old Tree evokes metaphors for the ancient wisdom of human evolution as well as a future in which the synthetic has become nature. On the High Line—a contemporary urban park built on a relic of industry—Old Tree raises questions about what is truly “artificial” or “natural” in our world. Made of man-made materials and standing at a height of 25 feet atop the Plinth, it provides a social space, creating shade while casting an ever-changing, luminous aura amid New York’s changing seasons.

Here is a YOUTUBE video to learn more about this beautiful piece of art: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=182&v=If7ntcbVjng&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thehighline.org%2F&source_ve_path=MzY4NDIsMjg2NjY&feature=emb_logo


I love the murals around the High Line.


Lots of people out, enjoying such a pleasant fall afternoon.


Chelsea Market - one of my favourite places in NYC - was already all decorated for Halloween.


Lining up for lunch at one of the most delicious tacos I have ever had: Los Tacos 1.

https://www.lostacos1.com



The line up moves fast, but luckily, there is brewery right beside it, with a suggestive sign:
 
"Yes! You can drink while in line. Order a beer!"



It was definitely worth the wait. 
The stuff - like Jesus here, who served our tacos - were hard workers, efficient and nice to us, tourists.


The moment were were waiting for!!!!


There he was! Arnaldo Antunes!
I have been his fan for almost four decades, since I was a teen listening to inappropriate music with my older siblings. Arnaldo was part of the Titãs, a punk rock band in the 80s/90s.
I immediately fell in love with his punk hair, crazy robot/strange dancing and his deep, deep voice. Titãs was a nine people band, but I only had eyes for Arnaldo Antunes. 


This was actually my third time seeing him on stage, on different phases of his artistic career. I saw him on Titas band, back in the 90s.  Then I saw him as one of the Tribalistas - with Marisa Monte and Carlinhos Brown - in Italy, just before the pandemic. And now, him and super talented piano player Vítor Araújo, playing their incredibly beautiful album Lágrimas no Mar (Tears in the Sea).



The concert was super intimated, with less than 200 people, which made it even more special. I had the feeling only people who really appreciate his art showed up. I felt special, and lucky. I saw on social media on the next day, that former Talking Heads, David Byrne was there as well. :)

What a inebriating experience!!! 

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arnaldo_Antunes

Arnaldo Antunes (born Arnaldo Augusto Nora Antunes Filho, September 2, 1960) is a Brazilian musician, writer, and composer. He was a member of the rock band Titãs, which he co-founded in 1982 and left ten years later. After 1992, he embarked on a solo career. He has published poetry and had his first book published in 1983. He has worked with Marisa MonteTribalistas, and Carlinhos Brown.



Celebrity spotting around Times Square, after the concert. 
We heard the commotion and came to see who was there. 
Well, neither of us recognized him. Can you help us????


One of the most fun things to do in NYC is to experience Times Square at night. 
It's like all the stress and tiredness of a long day in the big city finds a place to release all the energy. 
You can feel the vivacity of the metropole here, at 11pm.


This sweet day ended with something... sweet!
A stop for a marvellous Italian cannoli on the way to the hotel.
Delicious! Good night!