Tuesday, April 27, 2010

A trip to the Sertao Nordestino!

Back to Sergipe State.

It is kind of hard to explain to a non-Brazilian person what a life in Sertao really is. It's a place rich in culture, but with extremely poor conditions of life. The area, in the interior of the Northeast states, is often castigated by a terrible draught. But it is this awful reality that makes the Sertao people to be resistant and capable to survive and raise their children.
Here are some snapshots of a wonderful weekend at one of Brazil's most incredible regions.

We headed to the Sertao to visit a Quilombola community (formed by slaves

who escaped their owners during the colonial time) and do a documentary about its leader, Dona Josefa da Guia.It would be a 4 hour drive if we didn't get lost so many times. The second half of the trip was done on a dirt road, with no signs and many obstacles.
There are different wild animals on the road, including peacock.

Rita was our super driver.

Driving through a town called Nossa Senhora da Gloria, we were basically abducted into a house for lunch. We stopped to ask for directions and the house owner, a woman called Urandice almost forced us to seat down at her humble table and have her food.

Rita interviewing Dona Urandice on her back yard.

Dona Socorro, Rita's mom, a lovely travelling companion.

We had to cross parts of the road by foot, so the car (lighter) would pass thought the water.



The houses are very simple, most without running water but with parabolic antenna.


After about 8 hours of travelling, we finally arrived at the Serra da Guia Community, our destination.


There are animals running free everywhere.
Later, a couple of these chickens turned into our dinner.



There is a little stream that cuts the community and when it is not too dry, people use it to wash the dishes and clothes.

Film maker Rita Simone and I preparing to start shooting our project.


Dona Josefa with with friends, at her house.

She is the leader of this community and works like a doctor for them.
Her whole life was spent here, helping others as a midwife.
She also cures with plants and prayers.

Dona Josefa claims to have delivered more than 5 thousand since she was 11 years old.

Today she is a reference not only to her community, but in her State, for practises of popular medicine. Very often she is invited to participate on conferences and teach about her method of community leadership.
Last year she met with President Lula who told her about how much he respects women like her, since he was born with a midwife in a region like this one. But unfortunately, Dona Josefa is not recognized as a midwife. She doesn't receive any governmental compensation for her work.



Dona Josefa also took us into her house and offered us a wonderful dinner.

One of Dona Josefa's 23 kids, Tonha. This brave woman - Josefa- raised 11 children of her own and adopted 12 kids from the region.

The magic of filming touches those who have never seeing it so close.

These frogs are everywhere and make noises like a symphony at night.
The Cururu frogs are the size of a football ball.Dona Josefa, tired to photos and videos, accepts another take with us.

After sleeping at Dona Josefa's house, we took a tour on the little community to see their buildings conditions.
They use whatever they have to build things, in this case a fence with raw wood.

Behind the cactus, a "cistern," a system to collect rain water for personal use. Right now these people are happy because it is rainy season, but soon they won't see a rain drop for about 8 months. During this time they must rely on water trucks sent by the government or they have to go buy their own water one hour away by motorcycles.

One of the houses of Serra da Guia Community. They were built by the federal government, but they don't have running water, a major problem for these people.

The closest town with a health unit is about two hours away, on a very bad road.
That means that if you need a doctor, Dona Josefa is the better solution here.

The cactus are used for food as well.


Behind Dona Josefa's house I pose in front of the Juazeiro (Jua Tree).

Dona Josefa and her husband of 43 years, Seu Alexandre.

Sertao beauty.

This is Dona Josefa only cow.


Before we left, on the next day, a photo with our main character.

Back on the road, a quick stop to buy water and register more of the Sertao life.

The religious symbol at the town's entrance, a Saint Anthony statue.


The team (right to left): Dona Socorro (Rita's mom), Simone Leite (MOPS - Agency for Popular Health), Karen Bezerra (nursing student and MOPS volunteer), me and Rita Simone (film maker).

A common scene on the Sertao road.


CHILDREN OF SERTAO
Michael
Gabriela

 Tauane

Andre Quandu oiei a terra ardendu, When I looked the land burnin'

Qual foguera di São João, Like a Saint John's holiday bonfire
Eu preguntei
I asked

A Deus du céu: "uai, To the God in heaven: "whoah,

Pur que tamanha
Why all that
Judiação?"Anguish?"

(ASA BRANCA is a song written by Luiz Gonzaga and Humberto Teixeira in 1947. It has been covered by Zé Ramalho in his 2003 album Estação Brasil. It is about the droughts that often afflict the sertão of the Brazilian Northeast.)

David Byrne singing one of Sertao's classic, in English!


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