A trip to the Sertao Nordestino!

Back to Sergipe State.

It is kind of hard to explain to a non-Brazilian person what a life in Sertao really is. It's a place rich in culture, but with extremely poor conditions of life. The area, in the interior of the Northeast states, is often castigated by a terrible draught. But it is this awful reality that makes the Sertao people to be resistant and capable to survive and raise their children.

Here are some snapshots of a wonderful weekend at one of Brazil's most incredible regions.

We headed to the Sertao to visit a Quilombola community (formed by slaves

who escaped their owners during the colonial time) and do a documentary about its leader, Dona Josefa da Guia.It would be a 4 hour drive if we didn't get lost so many times. The second half of the trip was done on a dirt road, with no signs and many obstacles.
There are different wild animals on the road, including peacock.

Rita was our super driver.

Driving through a town called Nossa Senhora da Gloria, we were basically abducted into a house for lunch. We stopped to ask for directions and the house owner, a woman called Urandice almost forced us to seat down at her humble table and have her food.

Rita interviewing Dona Urandice on her back yard.

Dona Socorro, Rita's mom, a lovely travelling companion.

We had to cross parts of the road by foot, so the car (lighter) would pass thought the water.

The houses are very simple, most without running water but with parabolic antenna.

After about 8 hours of travelling, we finally arrived at the Serra da Guia Community, our destination.

There are animals running free everywhere.

Later, a couple of these chickens turned into our dinner.

There is a little stream that cuts the community and when it is not too dry, people use it to wash the dishes and clothes.

Film maker Rita Simone and I preparing to start shooting our project.

Dona Josefa with with friends, at her house.

She is the leader of this community and works like a doctor for them.

Her whole life was spent here, helping others as a midwife.

She also cures with plants and prayers.

Dona Josefa claims to have delivered more than 5 thousand since she was 11 years old.

Today she is a reference not only to her community, but in her State, for practises of popular medicine. Very often she is invited to participate on conferences and teach about her method of community leadership.

Last year she met with President Lula who told her about how much he respects women like her, since he was born with a midwife in a region like this one. But unfortunately, Dona Josefa is not recognized as a midwife. She doesn't receive any governmental compensation for her work.

Dona Josefa also took us into her house and offered us a wonderful dinner.

One of Dona Josefa's 23 kids, Tonha. This brave woman - Josefa- raised 11 children of her own and adopted 12 kids from the region.

The magic of filming touches those who have never seeing it so close.

These frogs are everywhere and make noises like a symphony at night.

The Cururu frogs are the size of a football ball.Dona Josefa, tired to photos and videos, accepts another take with us.

After sleeping at Dona Josefa's house, we took a tour on the little community to see their buildings conditions.

They use whatever they have to build things, in this case a fence with raw wood.

Behind the cactus, a "cistern," a system to collect rain water for personal use. Right now these people are happy because it is rainy season, but soon they won't see a rain drop for about 8 months. During this time they must rely on water trucks sent by the government or they have to go buy their own water one hour away by motorcycles.

One of the houses of Serra da Guia Community. They were built by the federal government, but they don't have running water, a major problem for these people.

The closest town with a health unit is about two hours away, on a very bad road.

That means that if you need a doctor, Dona Josefa is the better solution here.

The cactus are used for food as well.

Behind Dona Josefa's house I pose in front of the Juazeiro (Jua Tree).

Dona Josefa and her husband of 43 years, Seu Alexandre.

Sertao beauty.

This is Dona Josefa only cow.

Before we left, on the next day, a photo with our main character.

Back on the road, a quick stop to buy water and register more of the Sertao life.

The religious symbol at the town's entrance, a Saint Anthony statue.

The team (right to left): Dona Socorro (Rita's mom), Simone Leite (MOPS - Agency for Popular Health), Karen Bezerra (nursing student and MOPS volunteer), me and Rita Simone (film maker).

A common scene on the Sertao road.

CHILDREN OF SERTAO

Michael

Gabriela

 Tauane

Andre Quandu oiei a terra ardendu, When I looked the land burnin'

Qual foguera di São João, Like a Saint John's holiday bonfire
Eu preguntei I asked

A Deus du céu: "uai, To the God in heaven: "whoah,

Pur que tamanha
Why all that

Judiação?"Anguish?"

(ASA BRANCA is a song written by Luiz Gonzaga and Humberto Teixeira in 1947. It has been covered by Zé Ramalho in his 2003 album Estação Brasil. It is about the droughts that often afflict the sertão of the Brazilian Northeast.)

David Byrne singing one of Sertao's classic, in English!

Salvador for tourists: day 2! (April 22)

Salvador woke up much sunnier than the day before. From my hotel, I took a bus (R$2,30 or CAN$ 1,50) to Bomfim to see the Church of Nosso Senhor do Bomfim, the most famous one in Salvador. After a crazy drive when my bus driver took a "short cut" inside a gas station to beat the bus in front of him, I got there safe.

PS: If you are taking buses here (or maybe anywhere in Brazil), you must relax and trust the drivers. If you are not used to it, it can be a very stressful ride.

Most of the people have heard of Nosso Senhor do Bomfim because of these bracelets. Some believe that the colorful piece of fabric that you tie up on your arm while you make a wish, has an incredible power to make you wish come true. But be careful! You cannot break the bracelet on purpose. It has to naturally broken so your wish happens.

The problem is that sometimes it takes years to get rid of it!

Anyway, if you go to Salvador, you have to get a little bracelet for yourself and bring home many for your friends. They will love it! Don't forget to make the wish!
I was lucky to see the church opened and even participated of the very end of a mass.
It is a beautiful interior!

FROM WIKIPEDIA: The Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim (Portuguese: Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim) is the most famous of the Catholic churches of Salvador, in the State of Bahia, Brazil. It was built in the 18th century on a hill in the Itapagipe peninsula, in the lower town of Salvador. The church is the subject of intense religious devotion by the people of Salvador and is the site of a famous celebration held every year in January (Festa do Senhor do Bonfim).


Outside, vendors are a bit annoying trying to sell you their souvenirs.
But it is like this in any tourist places in Salvador.
Hopefully you will get use to it fast, because it can make your trip a bit frustrating.

The coconut trees makes this this place more charming.

From the Nosso Senhor do Bomfim Church, I decided to re-do another tour. I took a little boat and went back to Itaparica Island. (I was there for the first time when I was 6 years old with my parents).

The boat you have a beautiful view of Salvador. It cost only R$3,65 or CAN$2,00 one way, and it takes about 45 minutes to put your toes on the sand of this quiet and peaceful beach.

Arriving at Itaparica Island.

FROM: http://www.travbuddy.com/Itaparica-travel-guide-190443

Itaparica is the largest of the 56 islands in All Saint’s Bay (Portuguese Baia de Todos os Santos) in the Brazilian state of Bahia. About 15km across the bay from the city of Salvador, it has exuberant vegetation and more than 40 kilometers of beaches with very warm water that are generally pretty clean. The village of Itaparica, is a quaint little town with well-conserved old houses and shady plazas. In Punta do Areia you can get excellent fresh fish and clams delivered right to your door by local fishermen.Itaparica can be reached in about 1 hour by ferry from Salvador. The smaller passenger-ferry departs from near the Mercado Modelo while the larger car-ferry goes from about 2km north to Bom Despacho.This island is a nice place for a restful excursion while visiting Salvador de Bahia. It’s a beautiful place for resting at the beach and a visit to the town of Itaparica is also worth seeing.

It is hard to believe that the busy capital is right there, on the other side.

View of Salvador from Itaparica Island.

Itaparica Island, Mar Grande Beach (Big Sea Beach).

Geraldo is an artisan who was born on the Island and lives selling his art. Even though he lives looking at Salvador, he doesn't like going to the mainland because "it's too busy". I bought a little bracelet from him for R$5, or CAN$3. This money will be enough to feed beans to Geraldo and his family for almost 2 weeks. He also eats fruits and vegetables from the island. And since the temperature is never bellow 22 degrees Celsius, Geraldo doesn't have to worry about being cold as well.

A tourist from USA takes my picture on the island.

I had a Moqueca de Arraia (a sting ray stew) with rice and pirao (mandioca flower with fish sauce).

Back on the mainland I visited Salvador's downtown again and went shopping at the Mercado Modelo (Modelo Market).

Inside and outside the market you can find art crafts and cheaper souvenirs.

Coconut water for R$1,50 or CAN$ 1,00 is a good way to hydrate and stay healthy.














I said goodbye to Salvador with this beautiful sunset!!!

But I will come back (and I will definitely bring Mike)!

PS. I have to register here that Salvador is really ready to receive international tourists. Most of the people in the service sector speak at least English. I recommend!