Friday, April 12, 2024

March 19 - Exploring Valparaiso

 



Our boutique hotel in Valparaíso - only for hours, before we left it because of the forest fire alarm and the Alpaca blanket allergies.
Maybe the Valpo Granma wasn't happy to have us there. :)

FROM: https://www.chile.travel/en/uncategorized/street-art-route-in-valparaiso-2/

In Alegre Hill, go up through Almirante Montt to see one of the most emblematic murals in Valparaíso. It’s the “La mamie de Valparaíso”, a grandmother watching over the city from the corner of a house, a piece created by the French collective Ella & Pitr.



Details of an old and rustic community.



Valparaíso has a lot of character. 
I absolutely loved getting lost on the steep and narrow streets and alleys with their colourful buildings.



Each corner is a surprise.



Harbour's kiss.



Cats and dogs are everywhere, just hanging out and making the places even more friendly and cool.



Succulent plants grow everywhere.



Each inch of city is colourful and invites you to just relax and enjoy it.



Going down, there is the harbour and the Plaza Sotomayor.

FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plaza_Sotomayor

The Plaza Sotomayor is a plaza in ValparaísoChile. It is named after Rafael Sotomayor. The square is lined by buildings occupying full block-fronts of the streets that flank it. The focus of the square is the monument that honors the Chilean sailors who fell during the Battle of Iquique and the Battle of Punta Gruesa. The plaza and surrounding buildings was designated a Zona Típica (historic district) on January 23, 1979. 

At the northeastern side of the square are two similar towers, which create a sort of gate entrance to the port from the city. On the opposite side is the building that housed the Intendencia de Valparaíso, which currently is home to the headquarters of the Chilean Navy. The building used by the CSAV and the building that houses the National Council of Culture and the Arts also face the plaza.

Close to the station is the western terminus station of the Valparaíso Metro, that replaced the old railway station.



FROM:https://valparaiso.com/en/tourist-attraction/port-of-valparaiso-2/

The Port of Valparaiso is the maritime terminal located in the city of the same name in the Region of Valparaiso, Chile. It is the port with the highest passenger arrivals in the country and the second one with the highest container movement, after San Antonio.
Annually it transfers more than 10 million tons of general cargo and over 30% of all the country's foreign trade passes through its terminals. Also, per season, it serves about 40 cruise ships and 100 thousand visitors.
The Port of Valparaiso can be divided into: the commercial port (mainly containerized cargo), the citizen port (cruises). Each of these activities has its own space, separated from the others, with facilities and specialized personnel.


What a face! 
This man - who gave me permission to photograph him - haunts me in a pleasant way. 
Every line of his face and hands make me wonder of the history he carries.



Classic.




The feeling I have here is that time has stop about 40 years ago. The clothes, the hair styles, the pace of living, people's behaviour. This photo captures a travel in time while being in real time. 
Would you believe if I said this has happened in the 80s? Well, it's today's photo, but it proves my lovely "stuck in time" feeling. 


FROM WIKIPEDIA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valpara%C3%ADso

Because of the slopes of the hills, many of the surrounding areas of Valparaíso are inaccessible by public transport. That is why "elevators" serve the function of communicating the high part of the city with the plan, besides being a strong holiday highlight. The only elevator that can truly be called as such, is the Ascensor Polanco, because it is vertical. Meanwhile, the rest are cable cars but traditionally called elevators. Several of those funiculars – locally called ascensores – provide public transport service between the central area and the lower slopes of the surrounding hills, the first of which (Ascensor Concepción, also known as Ascensor Turri) opened in 1883, operated by steam, is still in service.The Cerro Cordillera elevator was built in 1887. As many as 28 different funicular railways have served Valparaíso at one time or another, of which 14 were still in operation in 1992 and still around 12 in 2010.

Valparaíso has fifteen lifts declared Historical Monuments by the National Monuments Council. Five are municipal property and the remaining belong to four private companies. The elevators are elevators municipal Baron, El Peral, Polanco, Queen Victoria and St. Augustine. As for the rest, lifts Florida, Butterflies and Nuns are owned by the National Elevator Company SA; Artillery, Concepción and Mountains belong to the Society of Mechanical Lifts Valparaíso Holy Spirit, Larraín and Villaseca (stopped for repairs) are the property of Valparaíso Elevators Company SA, and Dairy (stopped by fire) belongs to the Society of Dairy Cerro Lifts Ltd.

As a part of its 2003 declaration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Valparaíso has promised to replace and maintain its several funiculars. The funiculars were identified as an important cultural artifact.



More details of a rich history.


We took an awesome local tour - in English - explaining the city's history, influences and today's characteristics. I totally recommend a walking tour with a local because the person will help you navigate the streets and bring you so much information about that makes Valparaíso the cool city that it is today. 

Look at this building... an Yugoslavian architecture. Germans, British, Spanish, they all had their contribution to this eclectic mosaic. 



FROM BRITANNICA: https://www.britannica.com/biography/Violeta-Parra

Violeta Parra (born October 4, 1917, San Carlos, Chile—died February 5, 1967, Santiago) Chilean composer, folk singer, and social activist, best known as one of the founders of the politically inflected Nueva Canción (“New Song”) movement. In addition, she painted, wrote poetry, sculpted, and wove arpilleras (folk tapestries). Her best-known song, “Gracias a la Vida” (“Thanks to Life”), endures throughout the West as a beloved and poignant folk song.



Succulents growing everywhere.


A brief stop for a delicious home-made Chilean Alfajore. 
This lady and her family have been making this delicious Chilean sweet for over 20 years and selling them for tourists in one of the alleys. I tried one and bought 12!


 




Art is everywhere here and we have a feeling everyone is an artist too, even the dogs.  


Fifi got a free message from a wall: "That the waters of today be as clean as the waters of the past."


The famous Valparaíso Piano Stairs, on Beethoven Street.



The tour was over and our bellies were empty.
We stopped for lunch at this fancy restaurant with a view called La Concepción.
It was an opportunity to try a local beer from... Curacavi, the small town we stopped for lunch yesterday!





A must have while in Chile's coast: Ceviche. 

FROM: https://freshpressedoliveoil.com/explore/recipes/chilean-ceviche/

Ceviche (pronounced ceh-BEE-chay) is a popular appetizer in Chile, which boasts over 2,600 miles of Pacific coastline. The name comes from the Quechuan word siwichi, which translates to “tender fish.” Salmon can be substituted for white fish.

Ceviche recipes vary by region. Peru claims the origin of the dish to be nearly 2000 years ago in Lima.


After lunch  - or dinner - we  took the train to headed to the Baron Station. 
It is a 5 minutes ride from the main port, along the water.


Us exploring.


FROM: https://www.dreameratheart.org/things-to-do-in-valparaiso-chile-your-ultimate-guide/

Sea lions, pelicans and the sparkling ocean make this a worthwhile addition to your list of things to do in Valparaiso Chile. At Caleta Portales the sea lions fight each other to sunbathe on a large concrete structure just offshore. Watching them argue and try to jump up onto the platform is a lovely way to spend some time on a summer’s day.

Walk: If you have time, walk the 2 km to get to Caleta Portales

Metro: Take the Metro from the stations Puerto or Bellavista and get off at Baron. From there cross the tracks.


What fun creatures to observe!


They are loud, goofy, clumsy and funny. 



Even when it looks like they are fighting, it is hilarious to watch them falling back into the water. 



Last shot of the harbour.


For dinner, we left the hotel looking for authentic empanadas. 
Someone suggested these, but forgot to tell us that they were Venezuelan empanadas, no Chileans. 
We found out AFTER eating them.
They were good, but when in Chile...


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